26 Mart 1922 Tarihli New York Tribune Gazetesi Sayfa 65

26 Mart 1922 tarihli New York Tribune Gazetesi Sayfa 65
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Orienta r ruits Cumquats, Preserved and Crystal? lized, and the Chinese Lichee Nuts Beckon to the Food Adventurer Ih- liertha IV. Tinldtrin, ** Tribune fnetittttC ("^ UMQUATS and lichees?what . aisiona of Orlental delicious ness! To all thoso people whose taste demands a change from teroiled steak, French fried potai and lemen pio these foods Avii] brii e r,cw interest. You may have eaten of them in restaurants. Do rou know that you enn serve them at borae? - As a r.ation we ave too conscrva tvein our food likes. "What mother used to make" has been overdone. Mother did not have tho chance to vary lier menus with food from foreign parts ard was forced to over-emphF.size those things which Ave refiemi>er from our childhood days?all of those things she- could isake to perfection, by the way. The judicious inireduction of these Chinese delicacics \Aill make friends of those of critical taste. They are ill distinctiA'o in flavor and can be t:<ed to give n fmal touch to the perfect meal, to add a note of r.ovelty to a luncheon party, or to ciortfy a homcly dish. * One word of caution?use them niiliCRro the first time or in case vou do not know the tastes of your iruests. Too much is fatal for fu tare success?use just enough to give the mysterious, itatriguing Savor. For devotees ef the3e ran.: foods you can increase their use to jyour heart's content and vour pocketbook's posaiDiUtiea, Give them a triul and enlnrgc ?our gastronomic vocahulary?they are much easier to eat than to pro ttounee, and the lnstitute ciui help ; you on both counts. Frult ;md Nat In One Tho lichee nut und fruit appear regularly on the bill of fare of the Chinese restaurant. For most of us y are wafted over the aeas and ? posited there for our delectation, we think of them at all. How j over, the fruit is put un like our j canned fruit and can be purchased i ! in the many Chinese store.3 of which ! ! New Vork boasts. Sometimes the i ; rostaurateur will sell you a can? ] at double the store price. The lichee masqueradea under : many variations of the name, Hchi I being one oi the best known, but! , leechee nnd liiehi ave also used. I Pronunciation is largely what you ! please, li-che and le-che being, per haps, the more usual (ch o? in Cherry). However gpelled 01 pro | nounced, it is the fruit of the litchi tree that growa in southern China and neighboring places. Tho fruit | is nearly round, about 1% inches j in diametcr, and covered with a thin, j brittle, red shell. Inside is the white! sweet p'.ilp, which envclopa 13 singie, : shining, hard, brown eeed. In the dried condition tho pulp shrinks j away from the shell as a blackish ! stance. In this form ihe fruit appears in our Western markets as I "lichee nuts," merely because it is'j ' dried up and wears a shell. Perhaps' Eggs Poached With Base and Stvle ?-?T*"???" ?',:?:-.'. ?-rr-~ ??; ?. -??.?"-.-"?.'.-.? -????? ~r--?~\-./?M eP/r?o??B*';csv T'HfJEE or /our minutes suffice for peifeclly poached eggs. trhich for form nnd style thc Inch. deep ringa of this derice, turn out an egg to bo proud of., l\one of the tchitc escapes in the pan and the perforated bottom of the poacher drainn off tha water, so that thn tottst, is not soggy A alight presture on the four-inch levcr raisea the ringa. and with a apatula the egg is alipped out nnd onto itt tonstcd $quare Br Anna L. Pierce dbd Edna t. Sparkman, Tribune institute OOACHED eggs may be delight fully and appetizingly prepared T.ot only for Easter morning break- ' last, but for any breakfast, lunch- ! eon or dinner with a new devlce Which solved all poaching prcblems in the Institute Iaboratories. In appearance tho Maguire egg joacher suggeBts two open rings, j one ineh deep, fastened side by side and hinged to a perforated' aluminum base. Thumb pressure on ? a lever (a strip of light steel) raises j *-he rings and allows tho water to | ofaln off, when the eggs can bej easily removed with the aid of a | knife or apatula. The lever is pivoted to a strip of i steel, standing upright 4Mj inches! 'rom the base, which also has a : horizontal wooden handle rivcted at ^ top. The handle extends over ? Wd away from the cooking vessel i and keeps cool, When one grasps the handle, the thumb with the ] tfghtest pressure on the lever tilts i Wh egg rings and the eggs arei *sily removed, The aiuminum base ls perforated j ?> that the water drains from each j &se when the egg is dropped into it. j Using the Poachcr Lov.or tb? poarher (with the lever j "Priifht and the two nngs fitting j *nu(?ly agalns' lhe base) into ai P*n ot Simmervng ualttd water. If a j ahallow pan is used (which the In- j rtltut* prefers) the poacher will i rest on the bottora, nor does the | *a*er cover the uncooked egg. Iti ^n be ased submerged, but in this j *?* more egg white h lost. Into **'h case drop an egg, and when tho Poaching ls complete lift out the P?acher, drain a moment over the *ater with the cases slightly lifted, then press the lever all the way PP and using a spatula f?lip ? the *8*? onto a plate or-piece of toast. &? Stoamxia Sdaotut ?au*d Ou*. three or four minutc3 sufriced for perfect poaching. The eggs were nicely rounded in tempting rhuffin shape. There were no straggling ends of egg-white trailing in tho Avater or over the edges of the toast. Nor was the toast soggy, as is so often the case with eggs poached by simply dropping them into boiling waier. The poached egg is in the class with the codciled egg as the most delicate and easily digestible of egg food. It is for the child, the invalid or the person of fastidicus taste. Served with a cheese sauce it ls an exeellent luncheon dish, and a bed of spinach adds the last word both to Avholesomeness and the coior scheme. Daily Care Advisable Since the device is made of alumi num, it requires care to keep it look? ing bright and clean. With all alumi num utensils daily care is advisa? ble?polish with one of the steel wools and wash in hot, soapy water. This only takes a few minutes and results in a bright, attractive poach er, where lack of this will result in a darkened metal. "Tiie Ninety and Nine'' The imagination that one, "Mary Elizabeth," has displayed in think? ing up ninety-nine ways to serve a pcached e-gg strikes us in several dilTerent , places ? induding the funny bone, the adrntratlon bump and the tskeptic gland. A poached egg we have always considered as a na'ive, childlike and simple dish, bucolic in its proclivi tiea and associated with innocence. Some of these poached egg sugge; tions are fairly rakish, and their titles would win a job as a "head liner" on any sensa^ional metropoli? tan daily for "Mary Elizabeth." For instance: Contempiate a "bandit of the seas" for your lunch? eon companion, oh, bachelor maid, the same being poached egg, fried oysters, with lemon and ketchup; or ilot a mi' b*chel?.r? a "Betty Anne/' j which ia poached egg on goose liver ? loaf with chili sauce! Now, we can see a poached egg on rice, with a cheese sauce; on creamed spinach, on toast spread' with potted ham or tongue. on a slice I j of ham and toast with a mushrooni| | sauce?but when it comes to com- j j bining the simple poached egg with I artichokes, creamed chicken, lobster ! Newburgh and what not, avc falter | ?why drag in the egg? We feel j that ono who would put a poRched ! egg on a lobster Newburgh would | wear a sun bonnet with a cloth of gold evening dress. Think, too, of the technique in-! volved in laying a delicate poached j egg "face down" in a layer ot' aspic ! as advised. We simply cannot con i template it Somo can travel on : their facea, but not a poached egg. i Page the Japanese jugglers for this jcourse. On the other hand, we applaud : wildly "Murphy'3 secret" (which is i merely a poached egg in a potato | nest, sprinkled with cheese and sur rounded by sauce mornay). Even i thie dish might make Murphy eit up ! and take notice if the "Mrs." of j fered it to him in tho morning. "Eggs-actly right" is a poached egg on a mound of seasoned rice. with a chicken giblet sauce?which Avould be right enough if one always had chicken giblets lying around. "OiTenbach" appropriatciy offprs an hcrmonious composition consisting of poached egg on tunnyfish, en HVened with atichovies and tomato puree. We wish we knew "Mary Eliza? beth." Anybody who could get a kick like this out of a poached egg ? .vould be wonderful to live with on j tho grayest of days. It is great reading this book of hers, that goes with the egg poacher, whether you ever dare follow her all the way or not. Tho Maguire Atuminum Egg Poacher. Made by the Cemstock Bolton Co., Kansae City, Mo, and New Appliances Approved The Foods Tested Rich's Crryatallized Cumqu&ts Rich'a Preserved Cumquats E. C. Rich, Inc, 29 Ninth Avenur, New York City Licheea SuftUck, Loong Yuenkel, Hong Kong, Chlna l The Plan of Work I HESE products have been subjected * to a chemical test and shown to be of excellent quality and free from adul teration. Cooking tests tn the Institute Laboratory have been made to deter mine their edibility and adaptation to special uses. The results obtained are reported in part on this page, nnd any further in formation desired may be obtained by application to the Institute. that is what makes a nut "ruitty" always. Fresh, thoy ara th.e most cele brated and linest. of Chinese fruits, and particularly delicious. As wo tasted the canned variety in the In? stitutc wo found it to have a per fume-lik? fiavor, BUgg?*tiv? of white grapes and whita cherrie?, with a tantalizing nuttiness, However, some people may have to cultivate a taste I foi the fiavor. It is fox thosa who I lovo food adventuring. The article on chemieal test showed no preservative or tin and lived up to the label'ft claim that natural fiavor nnd fine quality, freshnes9 and maturity of fruit had been safeguarded. The fruit! has very little nutritivo value, as is j to be expected. It ia a fiavor food packed prac-! tically ih water (only 0.5 per cent { sugar in tho juice) and containing only 0 per cent of sugar in the' fruit itself and about 1 per cent 1 of protein and minerals. Lichee can be eerved aa is for a fruit sauce for dessert, since it is not oversweetened. If you like the fiaA'or you can use it in other dishes, being careful not to combine it with anything that Icills tho delicate licheo taste. Lichee Gelatine Straln the juice from the fruit. j For I''- cupfuls of juice use one tablespoonful granulatcd gelatine. Soak the gelatine in one-fourth cup? ful of cold juice, then dissolve in the remaining juice-, heated but noi boiled. When cold set on ice until it begins to stiffen; beat with an egg beater until foamy and stir in lightly tho beaten white of one egg, or half a cupful of whipped cream. Add one cupful of the fruit cut in fairly small pieces and mold in a large or small fancy shape. Serve with finely chopped roasted almonds sprinkled over the top and finish with a maraschino cherry. The juice can be used alone if the fruit is wanted for other diahes. Li'Cheese Salad Make little balla from cream cheese just big enough to fill the inside of the lichee, putting a piece of ginger the size of a H-ineh cube in the center of each ball. Stuff the Iichees with these balls. Arrange four or five on tender, crisp lettuce, sprinklo paprika generously over tho top and serve with mayonnaise. The Chinese Golden Orange The little baskets of orange- yel? low . cumquats (or kumquats) are known in tho fruit storoa in New Vork and other large cities. They resemblo somewhat the orange in flavor but have a characteristic tang, especially the thin orange colored skina. These are eaten with tho fruit?bite into them as ,vou would a plum. In Chinu they .ire uaually preserved in syrup.or crystallized, and the enterprising food merchant whose products are discussed to-day has brought these to the American market. The fruit is shipped when partly grsen and i.s carefully pre? served in their own establishment in this country. The name comes from the Canioneso pronunciation of the Chinese "kin keu,*' meaning golden orange. Tho Institute tasters voted unani How Foods Meet Body j Needs Shown by Graphicsj Editor*s Note?Diagrams are pop? ular <n the Institutc for everytMng jrt'm pucketbooks) to the foods'you *at, ar,d this artiale frem'a recent tnblication of thr. United Stxite-a De? partment of Agrioullun will prove of interest from both viewpoints. A NEW and graphic method of showing the composition of fifty common foods has been followed in Department Bulletin No. 975, Food Vnlues; How Foods Meet Body

?N'ecds, by Emma A. Winslow, which "vt3 just been issued by tho United Hatos Department of Agriculture. The bullotin. ls of interest both to dbtitians and to housekeeperfc. A chirt fr-r each food shows, by lines -f difforent longths, what perccntage of thc total necessary fuel and pro ttiin and also of three of tho impoi" tant minornls?lime, iron and phos phorus?-ia containcd in a pound of that food, thua making it possible to compare foods with respect to any of their nutrients. Calcium and Iron A glanco at the milk dirtgram, for e<amplo, e-hows that a pound (pint) of milk supplies over cight-tenths j of the calcium (lime) a man need:*! ptr day, and less than one-tenth of the ircm. The other foods of the diet should therefore include some in which iron predominates, and turning over the pages of the bul? lotin it is possible to find many such very easily. Vegetables and fruits, it is seen from thc chartn, are used in supply ing mincral substances and bulk in tho diet without unduly increasing tho protein and fuel. Milk, eggs, cherso, fish, meata and almost all the | foods depended upon to supply effi cient pr->t< in ur? with u few excep tions of anhual orisrin. The Cereal Foods Cereal foods providfe protein and energy ,in about the proportions needed by the body. Their protein is, however, of such kind that it needs to be supplemented by milk, sirga, cheese and flesh foods. "When ma?ie from tho wholo grain cereal foods also supply some mineral sub stanc?a and vitamines, but a diet cr-ntainlng largo proportions of re tined coreal fooda must bo aupple mente.-5 by plenty of dairy product3, vogetnbles and fruits. Su^ar and enorgy foods aro val uablti for fuel. A fow sweet foods Bitch aa maplp syrup, jclly and pre served fruits olao contain small am-:unts cf protein and mineral suh ctancas. Sweets in proper amounts ar.? an important part .->f tho diet wh/in ecrved at thw right time. Fats Have Fuel Value Fats and fat foods as a class have a higher fuel value than those of ?iny othor tjreup. They add flavor sjij richr.ess to tht diet, but should r-.'i Im used t?? excess. Milk fat ia i rarticulnrly rich source of vita i.ino A. Butter and cream are thercfirv far more important than trvst "thcr fats in the diet of grow mg children. Chccolate and nuts, which aro fat fo:*ls, also contain c&ncr* us proportions of protein and 'niierals. ? Tbe bulietln, "How Foods Meet J *<*$ Neev's," is available free on anplicaticn to the United States De .-rtment >;f Agriculture, Washing uv, d. a * mcusly and enthusiasticaliy for these two products but could ntit de? cide which of the two waa the bet? ter. After all, it is a matter of in dividual preference. ns Doth are very superior articles. Tho fruit has its own deeided fiavor with a sharp after taste like orange peel. The crystallized product may have a more acid fiavor than the preserved. Thc latter is put up attractively in glass jars with a smooth, mellow y the Institute East and West Meet When These New Flavors and Recipes join to Enliven Our Dinner Menus lyrup. The crystallized frult ln its blue and gold box would add to a steamer basket or Christmas box. The chemist reports very favor ably on the products. "Fiavor and quality unexceptionable," were his words, and ho is guarded in his praise, ia our chemist. Ho flnda Ra'o ouncca moro in the package than was clalmed on the labei?over thir tecn ounces of solids in tho pound jar. Tho fruit contains 66.6 per cent sugar, showing that there is considerable fuel value, particularly if tho heavy syrup Ib eaten also; and the preservcd cumquats are de? licious served as a preserve or as a sauce for ico cream or puddings. Tho crystallized brand furnishea a uniquo and exquisito conserve or bon-bon for tho tea table or for after dinnor. Sinco the skin of the frult fa not easily cut with the usual table sil? ver, it is wise to avoid a disaster by cutting the fruit before serving, unless the guests are expected to eat them wholc?they are the size of a very large olive and juicy. Thoso who like them are so en thusiastic that they will not con sider tho idea of cooking them, but since they are expensive and of an extremely distinetive fiavor, it is well to havo some ways of combin ing them to give the right amount of fiavor at a smaller cost. Cumquat Jelly 1 tablespoonful gelatine \i cupful cold water % cupful boiling water 1-3 cupful sugar 5 tablespoonfuls orange julce 4 tablespoonfuls lemon juice 4 tablespoonfuls cumquat syrup 1 cupful preserved-cumquats Soak the gelatine (if the granu iated is used) in cold water, then dissolve in boiling water. (For the instant gelatine use 1 cupful of ! boiling watflr at first) Add sugar. | fruit Jvilccs and syrup, Whon co!?J set on ico until it begins to stifFe^, then 5'tir in the cumquata and mo!i Ths frult can be cut into as large ot pmall pieces aa one wishes?quarterr rnako a good size, This jeily can bo served wi'c, whipped cream or custard eauce. Is i is delicious combined with Kpongf: : cake or lady-fingers for a charlotto j russe, Fruit cocktails have become singu larly uninterestlng hia last ~ar or ao, but with the right mgrcdicnts an appetizet can be served that is really appetizing?a quality that tho uiual cold, acid fruit affair often lacks. Oriental Cocktail 1 cup sliced pineapple, cut into small cubes xk cup sliced pre.iervcd cumquats 6 maraschino cherri%s 2 tablespoonfuls gingcr syrup (from preserved gin| 2 tablespoonfuI.H maraschino julca 1 tablespoonful grapefruit juir 1 teaspoonful lemon juic Cube t.h'3 pineapple by layin ; ' \ narrow strip?, ?':?? .; the board strips making cubes (aboul slices make ono cup). 1 syrup from \ them into thin slices, removir seeds. Cut the cherries into t six pieces. Mix the fru and pour the fruit , icr i ' Keep on ice one hour at least until well ' 1th ly chilled. Serve small portions ln i 3herbct glasses or orai;, cup.?. Only fruit juice to of the other tngredit 'Id 1 used?too much will mask cious cumquat flavor. ft :?'.??????????:? fc.<:'< ??F-Mm. : sfN %. r ? ? T luav Lie a little far reaching to say that the same caro that is expended on the designing of j fine motor cars is comparable ? to I tho detailed attention which mann-! facturers of washing machinea are j pftying to-day to their products, i but certainly the day has arrived j when "just any washing machine" j will not do. And some of the pioneer niachines aa well as some of the new comers stress durablo construc? tion and fino workmanship as to detail to insurc smooth running. Tho Apex is one of these. Its construction in unusually good, with tinned copper sheet used in the tub, whilo (the lead? ing "? new. feature) the cabinet which incloses tne entire machine is strongly built of pressed aheet steel, heavy strap iron and sheet iron. To carry out the idea of strength and durability tho minor part3 are also of east iron. Steel ballbearings are used on the wringer instead of wood, aa is usual. "Not a Sound To Be Heard" From its heavy construction you would expect much ado when tho Apex goes into action. Quito the contrary is true, however; it runs with but little sound except the hum of the motor and the swirl of tho water, There is small chance of the ma? chinery parta loosening up, beeause there is so littlo yibration of the machinery while in action and be causo the construction throughout is rigid. This rigidity is due to the use of heavy bolts with split Avash ers holding the pieces tightly to? gether. The two ends of the cab? inet are pf steel, pressed with chan nels cri-ss-crossed and around thc edge to stiffen them. The tub oovcr is of tha same tinned copper material used in the tub. It will hold its own, since it is boxed to hold its shape^and boast? n convenicnt little turn latch for ?-fcp looking during washing. Thc Wringer and Drip Board An unusual feature of the wasfaer ler A ia the placement of the wringer at j the left rear, though it is the con-i ventional practice to place it at the right rear. It can be fastened in ; any of four positiona for the con-: venience of the user and swings in | a complete circle. A flat upright trigger back of tho wringer will permit you to lock it at any of four different places. A handy one-piece metal drip' board is provided for the wringer; this also can bc changed as to posi? tion. An extra metal drain board to prevent all drip if the wringer is not close to the tub is also an ad-; vantage. Feeding of the wringer must be slow to prevent jamming as the rolla do not reverse easi'iy. All working heights of tho tub will bo found good, since the top is 37 | inches high and the wringer 10 j inches higher. All geara and rotating part3 around the wringer are covered?no mixing up of the clothlng in the moving machinery of this model. Easily Controlled Eiectrical control of the motor is provided in a hutton switch place-: about thirty inches from the floor at the left front of the cabinet. Both tub and wringer clutch-control lever., aro alike ln shape and dimensions. They turn in a horizontnl plane, tho tub ciutch being 41 inchea from the | flkor. A pull of aeven or eight pounds will throw tho wringer ciutch "in," while a four pound pull will throw the ciutch "out." A one pound pull will throw the tub ciutch either way. Thia is a good record. In determining the ease with which the tub could be moved about, it was found that 17 pounds wero necessary to movo it across the lino leum floor when the castors were aligned?but this must be done or difficulty will be experienced. Emptying tho tub takes rathor long, G.5 minutes for 15 gallons of water. Also due to the irregular shape of the tub it is not as easily cleaned as some other models. Cost and Method of Operation The cost of the operation ls small, tho tub costing 2V* cents an hour; tho wringer 2r!4 cents, and tha two when operated together 3Vi cents on a 10 cent rate. Since it takes about 20 minutes for one charge and 10 minutca for tho wringer, the wash ir.or operation on one chavs** of 8 sheets would cost only IV* cents. The practical washing test in? cluded 12 pounds of clothea (rathe; moro than average capacity) placed in 12 gallons of water at 168 de? greea with 1 bar of good wash'm; soap. The ten minutes clalmed i? not sufficient to wash the cloth clean, but this rcflects on the clai rather than on the machine, einco 1 to 20 minutes is the average time for first-clasj work on dirty clothes, even on a 0-sheet or 9-pound wash. As a matter of fact, the average part t of the wash was satisfactcrily pleted in 20 minutes, but the very dirty pieces ar.d tho burnt u i;tain on the test cloth took 25, would represent an average . ciency. It is to be noted thal water still had a tempi rature rf 144 degrees when the washing wa:- over. This is cf interest to those w vho still as^ociate boiling (212 degrees) --? washing. The tub action a . boiling water uni An electric washing machinc ? the list of neces d ap pHances?it i? no longer a luvui at any price it earns its Clothes must be washed dresses are a diminishing few remaining I ? ing priced, diffici keep. The Apex Cabinet Washsr. Mad* by tiie Apcx AppHance Company, Chicago, UI. (Tested end Endorsed by th* Tribune Institute) '"THOROUGHLY plekled nnd then steeped ln the fragrance of ewcet hardwood smoke, Adolf Gobel's "Quality First" Smoked Ham is a delicacy to be enjoyed often. Buy It at your food store for baking, broiling or frying. ' Reod-y -io -'Ed' Fi&c&cT Tbnguo Corrwd ?'?of MatfA *J FMnkfur-.orff T-.S-. f Jlsxrk S4(!lx?t4 ^* LCWfctfeVteal 2 floib ^ Ctnasn* tV.W* WftMtt MdtM most deStcko'is brcwa t>f*?d Mf.?U'i.r.tu?dhy ***l^ Waterttmeru, ft- V ^ ?t-.'iinftw*KiBHfc.?? iMHaiiMnall..' G&uteit Ffiour <9%?U/rCN Ot>arcal<*<S to conir'r ln ?!'? taai"?x.l? t* ?tandard roqulresnenta o{ O. H. Oepv o' Agrix-ultore. fA8Wt:i I. A UHINXft JAR W?tcrSi>wii, .s. V. VtZ****^